A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves
Dave
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28 - Tipping Point
Once I knew what to look for I started recognizing tipping points everywhere. I found the first one on the mountainside in rural Japan but realized I'd experienced one just a few days earlier in the…
27 - Miyazaki By Van
What's it like to live in the "Wave Hunter" and surf typhoon swells in Japan? Follow the ups and downs of this eventful week on the Miyazaki coast.
26 - Planting The Seed
Today we are kicking of the Japan series... which includes multiple notes from my extended stay and extensive search for surf in Japan. This first note covers how I came to decide that spending…
25 - The Arc of A Swell
Each swell follows a predictable arc that plays out in the surf community. Here's how it goes...Read this note and see pics and diagrams here:…
24 - Dreaming of Surf
Why can't I come to terms with "surf dreams"? Read it here: https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/dreaming-of-surf/
23 - Central American Summer Pt. 3 - Going Wild in The Streets
What happens when a young group of 20 year-old men, heavily influenced by surf culture of the 2000's, rent an apartment in Costa Rica for a month? A lot can happen... including one short moment that…
22 - Central American Summer Pt. 2 - Nicaragua: The Interior
What kind of trouble can a gringo get into when they get setup with a host family in rural Nicaragua? Listen in to find out. To read this note and see pictures, visit:…
21 - Central American Summer Pt. 1 - Venturing Beyond The Bubble
This week we're going waaayyyyy back! All the way to my first surf trip - a high school graduation venture to Panama which would kick off a 3-summer run of Central American adventures.Some things…
20 - Under The Influence
What dictates our surf style and motivation for better waves?
19 - Who is God?
The lingering question of who God is plagued me for years... until I drew a line in the sand and decided enough is enough.
18 - My Set Wave Mantra
Why do I always seem to blow the takeoff when everyone is watching? Find out why... and how I fixed it in this week's note.To see pictures or the read the original blog post…
17 - Falling in Love Again (And Changing My Mind)
What happens when the surf bug bites twice? A few seconds in the green room and a chance conversation with a lifer flipped my view of surfing on its head. Tune in to see how the trajectory of a…
16 - Head vs Heart
Is this a battle all surfers fight? Here's my experience with the internal tug of war.To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/head-vs-heart/
15 - The Vibe
Since I started keeping a log of all my sessions, I've realized it's not just the wave quality or quantity that gets me stoked. How does vibe factor in? And what's the appeal in longboarding? To see…
14 - Beat it Predator!
A strange character has me questioning whether the rising popularity of surfing is driving surfers crazy. Tune in this week for an extension of last week's coverage of So Cal surf adventures... and…
13 - Going Loko
How can a challenge involving an alcoholic energy drink and bad waves lead to getting stoked? Find out what happens when "the boyz" get together for a session, in this week's note. To see pictures or…
12 - The Nias Hustle
Having surfed at some of the best waves around the world I thought I had seen it all... but nothing has compared to the relentless hustle of this surf village in Indonesia. Tune in to this week's…
11 - My First Real Barrel
I had chased the unicorn for what felt like forever, until one day, it all lined up. This week's note was written in the magical land of unicorns and offshore winds - Nicaragua. To see pictures or…
10 - The Rollercoaster
I sat down immediately after a session in South Africa to write this letter home. With hair still wet and sand on my feet I felt compelled to get it out of my head and on to "paper" before I lost the…
9 - A Lower Dose of BS
This week's note: a quick life lesson I learned from traveling around the world with surfboards.To see pictures or the read the original blog post…
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A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves has published 29 episodes since April 2025, covering topics in Personal Journals, Society & Culture.
A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves is currently dormant with new episodes weekly. Average episode length is 14m.
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